Unboxing Star Wars Legion – Leia Organa

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//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=USToday I got to crack open the Leia Organa box for the Star Wars Legion miniatures game by Fantasy Flight Games and take a look at the contents.

Watch the Full Review here!

What a great little kit!

I’m not familiar with the game, but I do know minis, and I know that our favorite sci-fi princess getting into the action on the tabletop is something I’ve waited a long time for!

Let’s dive into the assembled figure!

Leia Organa comes in three parts:

  • Head/torso/legs
  • Open left hand
  • Right hand gripping blaster pistol

The mold lines were really nicely hidden by the trim on the trousers and the side of the boots.

The only really noticeable mold lines are those on the inside of the trousers and the ones at the outside of the boots. Shave those down with the back end of your hobby knife and you’ll be good to go!

You may also remember in the video that my blaster tip was aiming up, warped just a tiny bit.

After a little dip in some hot water, I was able to bend the tip of the blaster pistol into a straight line. Awesome!

It’s a fun little pose, but I wish she looked more like a leader, and less like a frontline fighter.

Like I mention in my video review, the pose on the box cover looks a lot cooler than the one they ended up with, but it’s still Leia, so I can’t really complain haha!

For her points and the abilities she brings to the table, I really think Leia Organa is a worthy and maybe even essential addition to a Rebel Commander looking to make the most of the fighters on the table. Check her out!

Thanks for reading, everyone!

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Warboss Skillbuilder – Painting Flesh

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What up, Playahs!

Here’s a quick rundown of how I painted the flesh on my Intimacy Survivors, and how you can take your flesh painting to the next level!

And now, the skinny on this skin!

This technique uses non-Citadel paints, which you can get at most hobby stores.

The main two things to remember are: thin your paints, and paint in layers. Lots of layers!

First, let’s consider the Male Intimacy Survivor!

Here are the paints I used:

  • Rose Brown
  • Basic Skintone
  • Medium Fleshtone

Starting with the Rose Brown, you just build the colors up, adding in the lighter colors with each successive layer.

You don’t need to shade or wash the skin with anything, AS LONG AS you keep you skin colors thinned and paint in layers.

The great areas to work your highlights into are the abs, the knees, and the leg muscles.

These areas are perfect to build the colors subtly and practice your blending.

Starting with the Male Intimacy Survivor will allow you to practice before getting to the real prize:

The Female Intimacy Survivor

  • Medium Flesh Tone
  • Basic Skin Tone
  • Sunny Skin Tone
  • Light Flesh Tone

The goal with her is to remember that she’ll be lighter in color than the Male. We want her to appear softer and smoother, and her skin being lighter will help very much.

The main areas to focus the blending on are the exposed right leg, and the torso.

Go slow, layer the colors up lighter and lighter, and keep each layer thin, so as not to make the paint lumpy or gloopy on the miniature.

Any Kingdom Death miniature, especially the pinups, are perfect canvases to practice your skin blending techniques.

Best of luck if you decide to tackle these amazing miniatures!

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How to Paint Miniatures – Paint Brushes

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//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=USWhat up, playah!

Welcome to my How to Paint Miniatures series!

Let’s talk brushes!

NOTE: I’ve built my entire skill set around using paintbrushes. Airbrushing is a skill I have only recently begun dabbling in, so I will keep those thoughts separate, possibly for another post.

Fun fact: when it comes to paint brushes, everyone has their preferences and I can’t tell you which brush you should use. What I can do is share which brushes I use, and which I’ve found success with.

Therefore, experiment! If you have some extra cash, try investing in a few different brushes from separate companies that use different materials.

VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF LIFE!

Ideally, you’ll want brushes in a variety of different sizes and shapes. Each brush should only be used for one task, but some brushes are versatile enough to be useful for different jobs, as long as you use them correctly and maintain them.

Always choose the right brush for the job!

Your painter’s toolkit should always include:

  • One workhorse brush
  • One detail brush
  • One drybrush

That is absolute minimum you need to get by! In addition, though, your life as a painter will be considerably easier if you also have the following:

  • An additional workhorse brush
  • One small drybrush
  • One basecoat brush

If you want to play it safe, why not buy a set of brushes tailored specifically for painting miniatures?

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//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=USThis is a great way to save some cash and make sure you have a nice, well-rounded set of brushes in your toolkit.

But maybe you’re the kind of painter who wants total control over your selection of brushes! Why do you need each type of brush? Let’s see!

THE WORKHORSE

The workhorse brush is your all-purpose, one-size-fits-most, jack-of-all-trades brush. In the Army Painter range, it’s known as the Regiment brush. In most other ranges it’s known as the “basic” or “regular” brush, because it has a tip fine enough for layering and detailing, but is large enough for applying paint on larger areas.

Pros:

  • Terrific at laying down base colors
  • Can be used for applying shades and glazes, as well as the highlight layers
  • Can also be used for detailing small areas (eyes, scriptwork, etc.) with only minimal difficulty.

Cons:

  • Will never be as good at fine details as a smaller brush.
  • Cannot be used to drybrush without damaging the brush.
  • Should never be used for big jobs (basecoating an entire mini in one color, for example)

THE DETAILER

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//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=USChoosing a fine detail brush is a lot like choosing a first car: everyone is going to have their own preferences, so you really should just go with your gut! The important thing to remember is that your fine detail brush will be getting in there and painting things that larger brushes will not be able to.

  • Eyeballs
  • Individual strands of hair
  • Scales
  • Cloth highlights

You’ll also be responsible for taking care of your fine detail brush to ensure that it keeps its point for as long as possible. Don’t be using it to drybrush chainmail or slap texture paint on bases or you’ll ruin the brush in no time.

THE DRYBRUSH

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//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=USThe drybrush is a great tool to have because it allows you to save time by cutting corners in highlighting many (most) miniatures quickly.

Drybrushing is especially great for highlighting:

  • Fur
  • Chainmail
  • Hair
  • Wood
  • Rocks

Even though you can drybrush with your workhorse brush, having a dedicated drybrush to do the job will save you a lot of trouble and not risk your precious workhorse being worn down or damaged from the constant abuse of drybrushing.

THE BASECOAT BRUSH

Also known as a Wash brush, this is a larger brush that will give you a lot of coverage to basecoat your miniatures in one color (Space Marines, for example) or let you wash or glaze an entire model in a single tone of shading.

Most of the time, you won’t need to paint an entire miniature in one color or a single wash or glaze color, so this brush isn’t a necessity. But it is great to have in your toolkit.

BRUSH BASICS

Here are some additional facts that may help you decide which brush to use!

  • You’ll mainly be working with acrylic paints, so when you’re shopping for brushes, make sure you’re looking for brushes that will work best with acrylic paints. On the rare occasion when you will be using enamels or oils, you should have a different, dedicated brush. Don’t mix your mediums, son!
  • The thicker and stiffer the brush’s bristles, the brighter the colors will look with less applications.
  • The thinner and softer the bristles, the easier it will be to control the flow of color and use thinner layers.
  • Bristles will either be natural or synthetic. There is great debate as to which is best, and personally, I’ve always liked the feel of natural bristles, but again, it’s a matter of preference, and there is no wrong answer.

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Space Marines Primaris Chaplain – Showcase

Here is my Showcase and retrospective of my experience painting the Space Marines Primaris Chaplain!

Here’s just about everything you’ll need to get this bad boy painted!

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//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=USThe first thing to note is that using a black matte primer (vs. a gloss, never use a gloss primer!!!) was all the difference! It does almost all of the work in prepping the model and leaves you free to focus on picking out the details in different colors.

I decided to hand paint the parchment script, rather than use the Micron pen that I usually have for such a task. It proved to be a fun challenge, keeping the lines straight, and I would suggest that if you are a newer painter or just not comfortable painting small squiggly lines of script, to use a Micron .005 black pen, it will really save you a lot of time and headache!

As for the rest of the mini, here are the colors I used:

Rakarth Flesh – Bone Mask, Ribcage, Parchment Bits and Robe Lining

Leadbelcher – Bolter Bits, Crozius, Chain, Neck Coils, Belt Buckle, Backpack Vents

Retributor Armor – Spikey Bit around the Crozius, Kneepad Skull, Iron Halo, Chest Logo, Hanging Totems, Shoulder Pad Rims, Skull Shaped Buttons on Robe

Screamer Pink – Crozius Handle

Khorne Red – Pistol Casing, Eye Lenses, Purity Seals, Book Cover

Mournfang Brown – Belt and Pouches

Wash it all with Nuln Oil and re-highlight with base colors.

Highlight the black areas with Eshin Grey, Dawnstone, and Administratum Grey.

One of the easier models to base because of the predominant black areas, so you can really go to town on the highlights and blending.

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Eldar Howling Banshees Showcase

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Let’s wrap up these 12 Ulthwe Howling Banshees!

Beautiful, but inconceivably alien and vicious! Just like my ex! Heyoooh!

These were a blast to paint!

If you remember my Unboxing video, I bemoaned the twelve minis I had to work with because of all the FINECAAAAAST issues I had to work around.

But much like a beat-up, abused and neglected old car, I knew that once I had cleaned up the minis and gotten couple layers of paint on them, they would shine again.

It’s a painful process, but one that will ultimately be so much more rewarding.

For these twelve models, the hardest step after the cleaning and priming was those initial colors. I really had to grit my teeth and power through the basecoats.

At the time I was sure that here would be no way I could cover up all of the miscasts, but here I am now, looking back and just enjoying the finished product.

As a sidebar…

You can paint anything!

That came out of nowhere, but it is such a strong belief of mine, I need to keep repeating it, in the event, dear reader, that you ever feel discouraged and want to just put down the brush.

If I can make these FINECAST Howling Banshees look like they stepped fresh out of a magazine, then you can finish whatever you’re working on.

Don’t give up, y’all!

Stay tuned because I’ll be releasing a written guide to painting up your Howling Banshees just like I did!

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Retributor Armor Primer Review

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The Emperor’s Golden Boys.

I purchased my can of Retributor Gold Spray Primer a few months back, but I hadn’t had the chance to use it until today.

VIDEO

Except for my Goldfinger, this thing worked like a dream! It covers exceptionally well and is not watery at all, a complaint I had about the old Shining Gold. In those days, you HAD to have an undercoat of some dark brown underneath or else your golden paint wouldn’t stick. Those were dark days.

Now, Games Workshop, among other companies, have developed colored primer that really take the guesswork out of the equation.

Are you painting up a unit of Ultramarines? Boom. GW’s Macragge Blue.

Brood of Blood Angels? Shablamo. GW’s Mephiston Red or Army Painter’s Dragon Red.

Swarm of Skaven? Be like the Warboss and use GW’s Mournfang Brown.

Stack of skeletons? Use Army Painter’s Skeleton Bone because for some reason GW hasn’t released Rakarth Flesh as a primer yet.

No matter what you’re working on, if the models are predominantly one color, either Games Workshop, Army Painter, or some other company has the colored primer for you!

I remember using Modelmaster’s line of silver spray primers to do the giant alien robots in All Quiet on the Martian Front, and I loved it!

Now, Games Workshop is once again taking everyone else’s lunch money by releasing a gold that covers beautifully and looks like the brush on product of the same name.

“But Warboss,” You might be saying, “I don’t collect Adeptus Custodes! What would I use this product for?”

Here are some other applications for this awesome product:

  • Stormcast Eternals!
  • Spray your old High Elves and paint the plumes red (a la Custodes). Those are Chrace’s colors. What’s Chrace? Only the most martial of the Elven nations and home of the White Lions.
  • 40k MINOTAURS! Forgeworld will hook you up.
  • Give yourself the Goooldfingaaah!

This product will drastically cut down your painting time if you collect a predominantly gold army. Now, if only GW would release Balthazar Gold as a primer, you could wash that with Agrax Earthshade and have a pretty nice brass color. Perfect for Khorne warriors or knights, or Kharadron (sp?) Overlords.

Anywho, thanks for stopping by! I give this product two goldthumbs up! Now, I’m off to wash my hands!

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How to Make Cracked Earth Wasteland Bases

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Hey everyone! Today, I’ll be showing how to make my Cracked Earth Post Apocalyptic Wasteland bases! Cracked earth, piles of rubble and debris, a mixture of dusty browns and greys can really help make the colors of your model pop!

You’ll need:
Dark Brown paint (in my case, I use Dryad Bark)
Astrogranite or other texture paint
Agrellan Earth or Crackle Medium
Agrax Earthshade
Karak Stone
Dawnstone

First, paint the base with your dark brown paint (Dryad Bark), leaving two unpainted areas for the Astrogranite texture paint.

Second, cover the unpainted areas with either Astrogranite, or some other texture paint. Texture paint is basically paint with small bits of grit or sand already inside them, and you can make your own in a pinch! Just take some grey paint (like Mechanicum Standard Grey) and sadd some sand and a dallop of white PVA or Elmer’s (if yer Amurican!) to give it some thickness and help it stick together.

When that’s dry, slather some Agrellan Earth over the dark brown paint. The more you use, the larger the cracks will be. The less you use, the smaller and more numerous the cracks will be.

LET THIS DRY OVERNIGHT! If you apply the wash too early, it could mess everything up!

I’d wait at least twelve hours.

Next, apply a coat of Agrax Earthshade over the entire base.

When that’s dry, you will drybrush a thin layer (or two, depending on how light you want to go) Karak Earth over the entire base.

Finally, drybrush Dawnstone, only on the granite areas.

There you have it! Stay tuned for my Tutorial on how to pant desert wasteland bases! It’s like this…but with graaaaaaass!

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